History of the Underground

A Journey into the Labyrinth of History – Pistoia Sotterranea



Did you know Pistoia hides a secret underground world? At 900 meters long, Pistoia Sotterranea is the longest underground route in all of Tuscany—a winding, fascinating path full of tunnels, stories, and legends.

Beneath your feet flows the ancient course of the Brana stream. Over time, it turned into a secondary canal (called a gora) and now runs like a ghost under Pistoia’s historic center. Walking here is like flipping through layers of time: this underground labyrinth tells how the Ospedale del Ceppo was built, expanded, and eventually absorbed bridges, towers, and even city walls!

Let’s go back in time: in the 12th century, as Pistoia was building its second wall, engineers cleverly redirected the Brana stream into the city’s defenses. It worked! Soon, this waterway became a “sanitary belt” where the first hospitals were built to welcome pilgrims arriving from across Europe to visit the relic of San Jacopo. These pilgrims were received and “checked” to ensure they weren’t carrying the plague before entering the city. These hospitals were poetically called Hospitals near the bridges.

And that’s just the beginning! Along the Brana grew water-powered industries: mills, iron forges, and even laundries. Eventually, the grand Ospedale del Ceppo was built above all this, growing larger and literally covering the river beneath.

Then came the Florentines (who conquered Ghibelline Pistoia in 1305). Under Florentine rule, the city was expanded and a third wall was built. The Brana and its moat were redirected along a new, external route. The ancient path was reduced to a canal called the Gora di Scornio, which supplied water to both the city and surrounding countryside. You can still spot traces of this clever redirection during the tour!

Today, exploring Pistoia Sotterranea, you’ll marvel at massive vaulted ceilings built over the old moat and witness centuries of stratified history revealed after a major environmental restoration. The site was once flooded with mud and construction damage—especially near Via del Ceppo. Thanks to the Historical and Archaeological Research Institute (IRSA), the area was cleaned and restored, and the old riverbed has been carefully brought back to life.

Ready to walk through centuries of water, walls, and wonder?

Pistoia Sotterranea awaits you!